Austria's Signature Grape

As far as famous Austrians go, Herr Schwarzenegger may be in the dog house right now, but let me introduce you to Grüner Veltliner. The country's signature grape is generally made as a medium-light, dry white, with flavours of stone fruit, honey and distinctive white pepper. The first Grüner Veltliner I had several years ago did indeed fill that profile, most notably the white pepper. The couple I've had since then have lacked the white pepper, but been pleasant. Currently in the WLS, Heidler Grüner Veltliner 2009. Definite stone fruit, pear and apple and unripe apricot (I ate an unripe apricot earlier today so I know what it tastes like). It is crisp, zesty and best well chilled. Given the lack of white pepper, flavour-wise it reminds me a bit of Pinot Blanc. It is nice, would go well with Chicken or Fish, but for $20 I don't know if I would buy it again. Actually, if I wanted a food-wine with no special characteristics to overwhelm the dish, I might go for this. NZ Sauv Blanc is too distinct, and this is leaner than a Chardonnay and less fruity than a Riesling. Nice enough white; I like it, but I'm not blown away.